Showing posts with label Cafe Abir. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cafe Abir. Show all posts

Friday, October 9, 2009

Perfect Day Part 2


By the time I had returned from my Tour of Marin it was late afternoon and the day was still perfect. I cleaned myself up and put on some music because at some point music has to become part of my Perfect Day. I random played myself into a perfectly blissful state as I sat in front of my window bathing in the sunlight. My dark skin loves the sun. Living in the City I have learned that when it comes to sunshine, when you can get it, gorge on it. I let myself be undone in unison on my afternoon secret journey. There was a time when feeling heavenly on a Perfect Day and being warmed by the sun the music would have provoked some dance out of me. I have been known to dance like a madman when I have privacy and am feeling full of life. Instead I choose to contemplate, or meditate, or something in between. Instead of following the music’s beat I listened to the voice of the songs that gave life and form to the lyrics. What are these songs of life telling me? Bjork is bluntly telling me love is all around me and I’m just not receiving. David Byrne and the Talking Heads are gleefully telling me about the building they live in that has every convenience and not to worry about them. Bob Marley is succinctly telling me who the cap fit, let them wear it. The Special AKA are telling me to free Nelson Mandela and of course the beauty is that has already come to pass. Gangstarr deftly lets me know there is no shame in his game. Jim Morrison sadly tells me this is the end, my only friend. Stevie Wonder curiously tells me Mary wants to be a Superwoman but it’s all in her head. Miles Davis sneaks an instrumental in on me that puts my blues in green. Music is magic and I let it take me, complete surrender.


When I come back to terra firma I realize it’s almost time to go to Corkage for some wine tasting. Corkage is a wine and sake bar that I discovered about two weeks ago. It’s located between Tsunami sushi and Café Abir on Divis and Fulton. The three establishments in fact are all one. Corkage and Tsunami are offshoots of Café Abir. You can easily walk from one to the other with the greatest of ease using the connecting hallway. The owners of Café Abir had been trying for years to make something of the copious space adjacent to the café. Twice it has been a magazine and cigar shop which so far has been its most successful incarnation. For a hot minute it existed as a cyber café. I was a regular at the space when it was briefly converted into an organic market with fresh bread and produce and an impressive selection of cheese and wine. At one point they brought in some roasters and used the space to roast their beans. I can recall walking past the large windows and seeing sack after sack of coffee beans in waiting. In the end sushi was the answer. Tsunami does have an element of swank going for it. It’s dark and wooden and the chefs prepare the seafood in the back unlike many sushi places which tend to be bright, well lit, and place the chefs in the front so you can admire their precision blade work. Perhaps it is because Tsunami is more like a standard restaurant than a sushi house. The generous bar is for drinking although you can order food there but it is unlike traditional sushi bars where the bar is a place where you eat and get to watch the sushi show. The place has been a success since they opened the doors. Café Abir received a face lift a few years ago and now it has the swankiness to match Tsunami. It doesn’t feel like a coffee house anymore. The last time I was in I couldn’t find the coffee menu on the chalkboard and I noticed all the shelves behind the counter were lined with bottles of wine. I am embarrassed to say that Corkage has been in existence for two years and I was just now “discovering” it. I still walk or ride my bike past Café Abir practically every day but since Café Abir is no longer on my radar I didn’t notice how they stealthily instigated this wine and sake bar known as Corkage. Divisadero is currently undergoing construction to make it appear like a boulevard of importance and the construction has closed parts of the sidewalk on adjoining streets. Instead of being on auto pilot I had to negotiate the construction obstacles and that’s when I noticed the wine bar. The place is tiny and has a small but inviting bar that seats about 5 people. The rest of the place is wooden shelves stocked with wine and glass refrigeration filled with an impressive array of colorful sake bottles. I came back for a visit with my pal Libby and we fell in love with the place because they have high quality booze in abundance and Yoshi who works behind the bar is one of the coolest people you will ever meet. He’s from the neighborhood now but was born and raised in Japan. He has a good grasp of knowledge about wine and sake and he plays the bass in a band called Beatropolis. I always enjoy meeting people in bands as it reminds me of the pre dot.com days in the neighborhood when there were actually a couple of rehearsal spaces on Divis within a block of Café Abir and live music was why you went out at night. That’s a whole other story that I will be writing about in a future blog.

The wine tasting is an RSVP event so I get there about 7:15pm. Even though the event has only been going on for 15 minutes the place is already filled to the gills. The only place left to stand is the middle area where the wooden cases of wine are stacked. This was actually the perfect place for me since I brought my Flip video camera to record the goings on. I had a stable platform to set my mini tripod and I’d be able to democratically shoot video of everyone in the bar . Luckily they were still on the first wine which was a $99 bottle of champagne, Dumont I think but I can’t be sure. I’ve rarely met a bottle of champagne I didn’t like and I became fast friends with this one. It was crisp, fruity, and the carbonation was ever nose tickling but not overpowering. Yoshi was working the bar but he wasn’t the front man tonight. He was mostly consumed with keeping the gears oiled while three others catered to the needs of the patrons. One of the three was a pleasant blonde haired gal wearing a turquoise blouse. Her job was to mingle about the crowd with a fresh bottle ensuring the guests were satiated. The main man for the evening was Alex Casella. He was the organizer and the wine selector. Dressed in a straight black mortician suit and tie and sporting a neatly trimmed beard and mustache I could tell Alex loved his job. He went about the crowd educating us on the details of each wine chronicling where it was grown, what the climate and soil conditions were like, and what kind of barrels the wine had been stored in. He had a particular affinity for the Montrachet region south of the Loire valley in France which he spoke of in almost religious terms. Rounding out the crew was Tod who acted as Alex’s second. He was more focused on conversing about the nose and particular taste of each wine. After speaking with him I discovered he was the weekend barkeep at Corkage and a long time resident of the neighborhood. Tod wore a derby, the kind of hat you might find on a detective back in the days when they wore hats. Along with the hat he wore a black tie with a long leather coat. He wore his dark hair long and his mustache and beard in a mini Fu Manchu style. Tod was very enthusiastic about sharing his thoughts and feelings about the wine. Where Alex was more of a showman, Tod came across as someone who would be sitting next to you at the bar enjoying the dry and sweet nectars. In the beginning the crowd was conscious of being filmed but they didn’t seem to mind. They played their parts as best they could and only occasionally taking furtive glances a the camera. It helps that the Flip video has such a small footprint. The crowd was more into wine drinking than wine tasting so as the evening progressed they loosened up quite a bit and soon were unaware of the camera and became engrossed in their conversations. My focus for most of the night had been on the perimeter people so I turned my attentions to the people at the bar. At the center of the bar holding court was this sista named Nicole. The two of us were the only people of color in attendance and I had met her briefly a week earlier at Corkage so it was easy to get a conversation going with her. She was,without a doubt, the liveliest person in the bar. She was not a typical but a classic black woman. She was looking good with everything in place with her black top, denims, and knee high mocha colored boots. She spoke with authority and sass with her big brown eyes shape shifting to match her emotion and expressions. She had the kind of body language that would make a silent film star envious. We had completely opposite tastes in wine. She hated the two wines I liked best. She said they were too complex for her taste. She likes her wines to be simple and straightforward. Champagne is her drink of choice and she was not at all impressed with the bottle we had earlier saying it was good but not $99 a bottle good. On further discussion I found out she was a regular at Corkage and frequently purchased bottles of champagne and sake. There was a bottle on display that I had been admiring since my first visit to Corkage. It was maple colored, beaded bottle in the magnum size that sat on the top shelf front and center. She informed me it was a bottle of champagne and one of her favorites. I forget the name but not the price which stood at $157 U.S. dollars a bottle. Nicole had purchased this champagne on more than one occasion so I knew she was serious about her champagne. Nicole made me promise not to include her in any video I’d be making. She used that fallback excuse all women use, “I look fat.” She had ample derriere but she was hardly fat but you have to respect a woman’s fat issues, real or imagined, so I promised I would leave her on the editing room floor. It wasn’t really about fat, it was about sexiness. She showed me a photo of herself on her mobile phone so I could get an idea of how she liked to look, at least when cameras were around. In the photo she looked sultry and sexy. Her now short, straight black hair was long, wavy, and luxurious with hints of caramel and her face makeup was professionally done giving her that night-out-on-the-town look. Nonetheless, even though I liked the photo I told her she looked just as good in her everyday look. She gave me that “are you crazy!” look and again made me promise to keep her out of the video. I ended up leaving Corkage with two bottles of wine. One was a chardonnay from Louis Jadot, Puligny Montrachet 2004 and the other was a bottle of red, labeled embriux de vall llach 2004 from Spain. In my current state of joblessness it is neither prudent nor in the budget to purchase any wine beyond the Trader Joe’s level but the Louis Jadot was one of the best chardonnays I have ever tasted. I knew I had to have a bottle. Sometimes in life you have to live a little and not be concerned with consequences. I walked out of Corkage clutching my bottles of wine like a father holding dear to his bosom a couple of newborns. The confederacy of varietals certainly had me in the right frame of mind for my next stop so off I went.

To get from Corkage to Solstice is a straight shot north on Divis about 10 blocks which is a hop and a skip by SF standards. I walked into Solstice and it was business as usual. The place was full and the din of the diners was at maximum force. The musicians Michael and David were doing their usual thing and playing one of my favorite tunes which I know not the name of. I quickly sat down at my usual place, a mini table in front of the bar right next to the musicians. If you are there for the music it’s the best seat in the house, otherwise it’s always the last table taken. I slipped my babies under the table and set up my tripod to film the duo. Unfortunately there was not enough light to do justice but I let the camera run anyway. I turned to the bar to get my usual Maker’s Mark neat and I was met by a friendly faced brunette dressed in dark top, dark slacks, and white tennis shoes. Seeing my video camera she deduced that I was there to see the band. She was also there to see the band so I was marked as an instant comrade. We began small talking and I sat myself next to her at the bar and that is where I would be for the remainder of the evening. It was a classic moment of hitting it off instantly. After 10 minutes we were carrying on like we had been friends for ages. Daria was her appellation and she was a delightful character. She was a friend of David’s but a more recent friend because she was not too familiar with David’s legendary outfit the Broun Fellinis. David had lots of female friends which is not surprising since he is a great musician and a cool person to be around. He’s a great blend of street knowledge, music, history, and he’s a superb conversationalist with high intelligence and a crafty sense of humor… all things that most women adore in a man. He is from Chicago and New York and although mellowed by west coast living he retains his east coast sharpness. He’s known for his energetic sax playing (echoes of Branford Marsalis) but he is also an accomplished song writer and singer which he only does on cd’s. When he’s playing live in front of a crowd it’s strictly sax.

My new friend Daria and I were hitting it off nicely. She is honestly enthusiastic about hearing what I have to say and earnestly prods me for more details while she herself excitedly relays to me the details of her life. She is a thirty something mother of two. Tonight her husband is at home taking care of the kids. This is her night out and she is enjoying every minute of it. She keeps tabs on the hubby and kids by breaking out her Blackberry every ten minutes or so to read and send texts and emails. Just about everybody at the bar is eating an appetizer. Like great minds thinking alike we both come to the conclusion that a tasty treat would fit perfect with our drinks and conversation. We order and share a plate of mini tacos, two carnitas, and two carne asada. She tells me she is a bad Jew while scarfing down one of the delicious carnitas tacos. She’s playful and self depreciating at the same time. We quickly finished the plate and I could tell she could go for some more as her appetite had been whetted. Her energy and verve told me she was a woman with appetites. I suggested another round of tacos which she kindly balked on. She said she had to watch her figure which she was proud of being the mother of two. She went skipping off to the bathroom and it was true, she did have a figure to be proud of but I knew she desired more tacos so I ordered another plate. The tacos arrived shortly after she bounced back on to her barstool and she was not at all displeased. After refusing and refusing to eat a taco she finally gave in to the temptation and had another carnitas which she ate happily but she was serious about her figure so she only had one. I was so enthralled hanging out with Daria I didn’t notice Ubi enter the building. Daria asked me who was the strange looking guy who had just arrived and was setting up his bass next to Michael and David. I had to explain to her who Ubi was (see Summer at Solstice). She asked me if he was part of the band and if he was getting paid. I told her that Ubi likes to drop in on the guys and it was all off the cuff and nothing that was mandated or official. Ubi helped David and Michael close out the set and afterwards they joined us at the bar. David ordered his usual, Sliders, which are three micro burgers and seem to be getting more popular around the City these days. The bartender Jeff put on a mix tape (yes I still use antiquated terms) and the first song was an old Smiths song (I guess all Smiths songs are old now) and Daria and I delighted that we were both huge Smiths fans. I never stopped listening to them, I hear Morrissey and the lads everyday. That led me to relate to her one of the best live shows I have ever experienced which was in 1987 at the Universal Amphitheater for the Queen is Dead tour. Morrissey in his prime was something to behold and the tab of Ecstasy I dropped definitely added to the flavor (this is back when Ecstasy was still pure, hard to get, and not being made in someone’s garage). By now Daria had shifted her attention to David, the reason she was at Solstice in the first place. I was ready to roll as the wine and the Maker’s were taking their toll. Daria whipped out her Blackberry and secured my full name, email address, and phone number. Not only is she fun, she’s organized. I gave her a big hug, said my goodbyes to the fellas and headed for the door. Ubi and Michael being sharp eyed reminded me not to forget my babies. I scooped up the bottles and began the journey home.

On the walk home I reflected on my Perfect Day. Why couldn’t everyday be like this? Lack of work has led me to question my personal magnetism and worthiness. I often defer going out to meet people and socialize because I don’t want to invade people’s space with the gloom and spectre of unemployment. Perfect Day allowed me to forget about that and just go out there and be who I am. It worked because I was positively connecting with everyone I experienced at Corkage and Solstice. If I had dice I would have been rolling sevens all night long. When I arrived at home I checked my email and was pleasantly surprised to see an email from Daria, it was a classic “remember me?” email which I found amusing. Of course I remembered her. I would remember Daria for all times even if I never saw her again. She’s in my archives as being an important part of my latest Perfect Day. I do hope to see her again someday because I am very sure I would enjoy her company, Perfect Day or not.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

The Lone Stranger



All of the Utopias will come to pass only when we grow wings and all people are converted into angels


Fyodor Dostoyevski
Diary of a Writer (1873)


On this clear-as-water Tuesday night I am penning my thoughts in the 821 bar located at 821 Divisadero.  It's a feast or famine type of bar.  Last week I was in here with my good friend Libby and other than the Colombian bartender Juan we were the only one's sucking air in the place.  The music was low and Juan put on a show charming us with is megawatt smile and samples of concoctions he was inventing behind the bar.  Tonight the place is fairly full.  There are two semi-large groups anchoring the bar.  One group is here to suck down some brews and watch the Giants who are absolutely clobbering the Rockies.  The other group is here to celebrate someone's birthday as evidenced by the raucous happy birthday serenade just delivered to someone in the group.  The place is earplug loud.  Everybody is at top volume with conversations jostling like a game of Jenga.  At times some of the women are actually shrieking in that fingernail-across-the-chalkboard manner.  Not exactly music to my ears but I will survive.   My buddy Libby is sitting next to me chatting it up n Spanish with her companion for the evening Enrique.  We didn't arrive together we just happened by chance to pick the same place to hang out.   She probably thought it would be a nice quiet place to practice her Spanish.  NOT!   The volume of the music is way up challenging the crowd for the Master of Decibels title.  Juan's movements are robotic.  He's laboring to make sure all whistles are wet.  The cheshire cat grin is temporarily in storage but he's a born charmer so he musters up some energy to sweet talk a duo of ladies drinking Chardonnay at the bar.  I'm not too sure if the crowd are locals.  I don't see any tatoos, body piercings, unique hair stylings, funky clothing or transgender types.  Maybe it's me.  The neighborhood is always changing.  For most of my existence here in the City Divis has been an urban gulag attracting all varieties of fringe type people.  This crowd seems more mainstream, more like dressed down suburbanites than born-to-be-wild transplant San Franciscans. 


 A couple of doors down in between the tatoo parlor and Cafe Abir is the neighborhood video store the Film Yard.  It's the place to go if you want to see tried and true locals.  We are fortunate in the Netflix-digital download era to have the Film Yard.  It's a throwback place with that funky SF vibe and hand written signs by the employee's of suggestions of movies you should watch that you probably never heard of.  On any given day the owner Andrew might be working the counter.   Andrew is a hulk of a man who's size belies his graciousness.  He loves to play computer games and would rather talk to you about that than films.  I've had several lively conversations with him about the latest shooter or rpg.  That's how all the establishments in the neighborhood used to be, owner operated.  There used to be another video store two blocks down just below Hayes owned by a Korean family.  Alice, the matriarch of the family ran the place 24/7.   She would always be accompanied by her young son who would behind the counter playing with his latest action figure or crayon drawing super hero extravaganzas.  I remember when he was just a toddler barely able to walk.  By the time they closed up shop he was well into grade school and I would always marvel at his super hero drawings she would post on the walls.  The kid definitely had talent.  Like many Korean shop owners Alice was super nice and spoke in a sing song style of English.  On some occasions during off hours I would walk in to drop off a movie and she would be on the phone gossiping with friends in her native hard accented and guttural Korean.  As soon as she would see me she would switch back to her high pitched, songbird American voice and give me a warm greeting.  I always got a big kick out of that.  


Half a block up from Alice's video store was the Bean Bag Cafe on the northwest point of Divis and Hayes run by two of favorite neighborhood people Mo and Luba.  The Bean Bag opened up in the mid Nineties not long after the ever popular Cafe Abir.  It was the place you went to for peace and quiet in contrast to the shake and bake, seen-and-be-seen scene at Cafe Abir.  I started going to the Bean Bag whenever the line at Cafe Abir would get backed up and start snaking out the door.  A brotha shouldn't have to wait in line 12 deep just to get the morning java.   Like many places I frequented in the neighborhood I became a regular with priviliges at Abir.  I could make eye contact with one of the baristas and they'd pour me my usual large coffee and I could bypass the line and just throw a couple of bucks on the counter, grab my coffee, and be on my way.  When I didn't feel like doing that I'd just walk down two blocks to the Bean Bag where there was never a line and empty seats aplenty for me to stretch out and do my daily perusal of the San Francisco Chronicle.  Another reason I liked going there was because of the sparkling personality behind the counter named Kristian.  In the early days before Mo and Luba became fixtures Kristian single handedly held the place down.  He was a jolly lad who had short dyed blonde hair and crystal clear blue eyes. Kristian had a twinge of an accent, perhaps German or Dutch.  He was from the neighborhood and everyone who came into the Bean Bag was treated like a best friend.  He may or may not have been gay, that's something I never ask people I meet in the City.  He was definitely gay in the sense that he exuded happiness and good cheer about 99.9 percent of the time.  


After a few years of existence and finding it's niche the Bean Bag made a name for itself by expanding its food menu from the usual croissant, pastries, crepes, and deli sandwich to adding appetizing burgers and fries.  They extended their hours and started serving delicious and cheap pasta dinners and got a few beers on tap.  It was rumored that a chef from North Beach had defected to the Western Addition and was the creator of the distinguished list of pasta meals now gracing the menu.  For $4.99 you'd get a pasta dish that could last two meals and hefty slice of cheesebread.  This was right about the time the dot.com was getting ready to rearrange the City's priorities when everybody I knew was still living on the cheap.  The scrumptious pasta dinners for under $5 was the deal of the century so I was hittin it about 2-3 times a week, always call in/pick up which any wise San Franciscans know is the only way to go.  As the word got out and the price creeped up a few bucks the Bean Bag transformed itself into a place where you could actually go to sit down and have a meal.  This is when Mo and Luba came on the scene.  Mo was the proprietor.  He was a handsome, well mannered guy who wore his long black hair in a ponytail.  You could tell Mo worked out from the muscles straining under his black tight fitting t-shirts.  He was dark olive skinned and had that Mayan look.  He was a traveler and always had a tale to tell from his latest adventure in Thailand, Brazil, or some other exotic place beyond our borders.  Mo was the owner but it was Luba who commanded the place.  She was a sexy, robust woman with straight long bright blonde hair and had naturally tanned glowing skin which was always on display.  Day or night, winter/spring/summer/fall she always looked like she just arrived from a backyard cookout with her casual attire of shorts and tasteful tank tops.  She was a double-taker, the kind of woman you'd walk by and have to look at twice... or three or four times if you were a dawg like me.  She had the force of a field general but was also personable in a way that could draw you into conversation and the next thing you knew you'd be telling her your life story. Whenever I would pass by the Bean Bag even if I wasn't planning on getting anything I'd drop in and talk to her for a bit.  Mo and Luba worked from early afternoon to closing at 10pm when the Bean Bag transformed itself from standard cafe to neighborhood restaurant extraordinaire.  It was my favorite place to eat for years.  At the high point of dining there I used to call Luba and tell her I'd be there in 10 minutes.  When I arrived there'd be a table in the back with a glass of red wine, a crispy salad, and a hot piece of cheesebread waiting for me.  I always came at 9:30ish for the last half hour when the place would almost be empty so I could have Luba all to myself.  She'd entertain me with gossipy conversation while I dined and on quite a few occassions I got to be guinea pig for new crepe desserts.   When I was a real good boy I'd get my whole meal on the house and I was a real good boy quite often.  It was as good as it gets, why would I even bother eating anywhere else?  


Like many of my all time favorite city hangouts it is all just a memory now.  Back in 2006 Mo started selling beer on tap for $1.29 a pint after 3pm everyday.  Yet another deal of the century at the Bean Bag.  During the day the Bean Bag was populated by the wi-fi crowd.  The free wi-fi made it so popular that the local snatch-and-run laptop gangs were punking unsuspecting customers about once a week.   One gangster would walk in and cause a diversion while one or more cohorts would bogart a laptop and break for the door and bolt in any direction the wind could take you.  Now the bargain basement brews started attracting the young and restless who would come in groups of four, five, and six or more and liquefy themselves to their hearts content.  They weren't exactly neighborhood people so the atmosphere changed and it became more like the Zeitgeist bar on 14th and Duboce  which I'll have to tell you about in another entry.  Mo and Luba were seen less and less and at present they aren't seen at all.  Some hired hands now handle the mostly beer drinking afternoon/evening crowd.  On my way to the 821 bar this evening I walked by the Bean Bag and it was overflowing with twentysomethings  chugging beer in plastic cups.  On the outside tables I noticed a few people smacking on Popeye's chicken (which is right across the street) washing it down with their Stella Artois and Prohibition Ales.  That's the difference between now and then.  In the beginning you had loyalty.  It's the loyal people that make an establishment a second home and provide just enough business and population to keep a place from going under in the first years of business.  Once a place gets popular and established and becomes the latest cool place to hangout you get the people who are just looking to be part of the in-crowd or those looking for the latest in bargain dining.  I was loyal as man's best friend to the Bean Bag as I was a frequent flyer, even after the the formerly $4.99 pasta had breached the $10.00 mark and the takeover by the beer hall crowd.  As I have learned painfully, time and time again, nothing good in San Francisco lasts forever....


...to be continued.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Summer at Solstice

Tonight I am writing from a neighborhood restaurant bar called Solstice. I brought my pen and notebook so I could write in real time. Not long ago Solstice was a jazz joint called Rasselas. Rasselas offered Ethiopian cuisine but mostly it was about the jazz. Live music was played every night and the clientele included quite a few black folk. It was one of the few places in the City you could walk into and there would be more black faces than you could count on two hands. I always had the feeling it was something left over from the old Fillmore district, a place of lore I never experienced but have lived in the City long enough to have an idea. The new Fillmore is where Rasselas is now as a matter of fact, in the trying-to-resurrect-itself jazz district. More than a decade ago then Mayor Willie Brown claimed that the Fillmore jazz district would be reborn. It’s a lot cleaner now with the new Yoshi’s serving as anchor with it’s massive vertical marquee on the corner of Eddy and Fillmore. Passing through recently I walked past a bus stop with about a dozen Asian and perhaps Persian students milling about with their uniforms and Ipods doing what kids normally do while waiting for the bus. Not too long ago you would have seen a lot of black kids milling about but now they are nowhere to be seen. When I first moved to the City this is the neighborhood I worked in so I knew it well. It had a rep, it was the part of the Western Addition you didn’t really want to go to hang out which is San Francisco doublespeak for saying, “there are a lot of black people there.”


Solstice is just on the edge where the Western Addition gives way to Pacific Heights. Some people might call the area Pacific Heights, some people might call it Laurel Heights. There is always somebody trying to rename or claim the border town neighborhoods in the City. The place feels a bit gentrified (compared to the old Rasselas). I’m here to hear some guys I know play some live music. Michael C. of Kat Delic, Black Quarterback and a plethora of other bands and musical tandems is on the guitar and David B. of the Broun Fellini’s, Kat Delic, Black Quarterback, and long time member or the San Francisco music scene is on the saxophone. I wonder how they are feeling tonight after having played three days ago with Parliament at the Regency Hotel. I missed the show unfortunately but from the pictures I saw on Facebook it looked like the usual P-Funk All Stars sideshow insanity with people everywhere and the stage filled with too may people to count. If you wanted to be in the band you could have probably just stepped on the stage and started doing your thang and nobody would know better. When I walk in Michael is strumming his guitar gently, like he’s just getting warmed up. His head is down and lolling back and forth like a true bluesman. David is leaning back on his stool and staring into space like he’s totally somewhere else, like he’s got something in his head that is only for him to be aware of, at least for the moment. They are the ambient sound for the evening. Their job is not to take the joint over but to enhance the dining experience. The people in the restaurant don’t know how lucky they are because these guys can play. They are professionals who earned their spurs and badges in the City long ago. They represent a vibe the City used to have before the dot.com tidal wave hit and washed away many of the artists and musicians that populated the small theater groups and the low to no cover clubs and bars featuring live music every night in the Haight and the Mission districts. Most people are here with work buddies or friends to have some food, knock back some drinks, and talk talk talk. It’s a yack fest. The music moves under and around the conversations providing its own sustenance and if you are here for the music the voices start to fade away. The bar always has 5-10 people who, like the diners, are mostly yacking away, they just chose to forgo the grub and get straight to the libations. The physical space is all dark wood with subdued track lights, ceiling fans and a candle at each table providing the place with the kind of atmosphere that allows you to get lost in food, drink, or sonic sweetness. Working behind the bar is this young brotha named Sean. He’s got that million dollar smile and he makes the people at the bar feel at home. He’s a local and he’s been running the streets of San Francisco since his days as a school kid. He always treats me proper. What more could you ask from the person who’s pouring your brews and whiskies?


Back to the music…. The guys have taken it up a notch, like a predator preparing for the killing strike. David is running up and down the scales with his sax like a man possessed, like something restrained that has become unbound. Then he brings it down, like a snake charmer on the streets of Calcutta calling up the spirit of the Cobra, hypnotic and mesmerizing. Tonight there is a special guest who has dropped in to lay down some licks on the bass. Ubi is his name and he’s a San Francisco icon for anybody who lived near the intersection of Divisadero and Fulton in the late 90‘s. Like David and Michael he was part of the early 90’s music scene in Lower Haight that produced Michael Franti. The Horseshoe Cafe in Lower Haight used to be the place to be back in those days but in the mid 90’s it started to get played out and a lot of that energy shifted to the up and coming Café Abir located at the intersection of Divis and Fulton. Before Café Abir opened its doors Divis was a kind of wasteland. There was the old Kennel Club, Brother-in-Laws bbq shack, Eddies soul food restaurant, liquor stores on every corner, and nail salons galore. It was my neighborhood and I loved it. Café Abir opened in 1992 and brought some long needed café culture to Divis. Many of the people in the Lower Haight frequenting the cafes, bars, and clubs actually lived off the Divisadero corridor so now instead of schlepping the 4-6 blocks to Lower Haight for your daily java or pint you could just walk one or two blocks to Café Abir. Café Abir had what I called the Café Kings. Those were the people who were daily citizens of the café holding court on the sidewalk spinning yarns about life and living. I always wondered how they pulled of this lifestyle because I had a day job. It turns out many of them were musicians and a variety of other artists. If you happened to get a seat on the sidewalk you inevitably would find your self in a conversation about politics, global travel, the latest book you read, or the local music scene. This was before wi-fi and notebooks took over the cafes and the conversations started revolving around IP’s, startups, and stock options. Ubi practically lived at Café Abir. He was a sidewalk guy, you actually never saw him inside the place. He had a way about him that would get your attention. He was on the small side and lean but he always wore large reflective sunglasses and he had a huge golden bronze afro that matched his skin in color so he appeared larger than life. There was some hyperactivity to the way he moved and he has the features of a hawk so his eyes, when you saw them, could be penetrating. I had not seen him for years. Café Abir is a different place now. The Café Kings are long gone. The place has been remodeled for the umpteenth time and it now has a more upscale look to match the connected sushi restaurant next door that at one time was a cyber café and before that was a magazine/cigar shop, and before that was an organic food market, all extensions of Café Abir. I am happy to say Ubi is still Ubi. His fro is now pulled back into a frizzy ponytail and he still has the trademark reflective lenses that he dons even at night. Ubi has discovered the new media and is very excited about showing how he keeps it all going with his G-Mobile phone and his handy hand held high definition video camera made by Sony. He can send mp3’s to other musicians with his phone and he can document on the spot whatever he is doing with his video camera and send it to YouTube or Facebook. That’s where the audience is now. Back in the day the most sophisticated device a musician had was a dat… now it’s an I-Phone or a Blackberry.


Getting back to the place… Solstice is located on the southwest corner of Divis and California and the place doesn’t really have walls as much is it has gargantuan plate glass windows. There are no curtains or blinds so anybody walking by becomes part of the show. There is a MUNI stop right out front behind where the band plays. Watching people get on and off MUNI is one of my favorite San Francisco past times. If you want to see real hardcore San Franciscans just hangout at a MUNI stop and watch the people get on and off the bus. People walking by or getting off the bus can’t help but notice the musicians playing. They can’t hear the music but they are drawn by the musicians’ body language. They are more connected to the musicians than most of the yackers dining at the tables or drinking at the bar.


They’re on the second set now and the place is thin. It’s perplexing because for the City it is a warm night and the moon is almost full. It’s the no sleeve kind of night that compels you to go out and be in the night air under the glow of the moon. In places like this the first set is for the diners but the second set is for the musicians and the peeps that came for the music. Now it doesn’t matter to these guys if the place was empty, they’d still be jamming because that is what they do. Ubi’s improvising on the bass and Michael and David are following his lead. You can tell the guys are having a good time. Michael is one of those rare musicians that when he plays he has this big smile on his face, and right now he’s full on ear to ear. David who has been playing from his stool most of the night is on his feet and once again in snake charmer mode. Its almost time to call it a night. Summer is almost nigh but it’s just starting for San Francisco. The gods of summer, for reasons unknown, cursed this city of hills and fog. June, July, and August are more like winter part two than summer… but when September rolls around we are blessed with warm days and blue skies right up to Halloween and then some engineer working on the behalf of Mother Nature hits that switch and the mercury drops, the clock is rolled back, night takes day, and the leaves start floating to the earth. I’m gonna put my pen down now and let the music float me up so I can return to the earth like an autumn leaf. I’m out!




Without music life would be a mistake.


Freidrich Nietzsche
The Skirmishes of an Untimely Man (1888)